A Genuine Taste Of Vietnam In A Corner Of Lowell

WHO’S IN CHARGE Hoang “Bill” Nguyen and his wife, Ha, started Pho 88 16 years ago. His father, a former soldier in the South Vietnamese army, was imprisoned for 10 years after the Vietnam War ended. With US help, he emigrated with his family and settled in Brighton.

The tai gau noodle soup is a Pho 88 specialty.

After five years as a waiter at the Brighton eatery Pho Pasteur, Nguyen saw an advertisement for the sale of a small Vietnamese restaurant in Lowell. He decided to take the plunge to become a restaurant owner, and so Pho 88 was born.

Pho is a popular Vietnamese noodle soup, and the number, considered lucky in China, was suggested by a Chinese friend.

After first relying on an experienced chef, Nguyen eventually took over the kitchen and, with the help of his wife and his vegetarian mother-in-law (“a good cook,” Nguyen said), the menu grew.

He and his wife have developed special spice combinations that they keep secret, even from the staff. Nguyen sources many ingredients from Vietnam, including bean curd. He’s focused on giving the dishes true Vietnamese flavor, but he’s also aware that American palates may need a gentle introduction to the cuisine and can recommend dishes to suit them.

THE LOCATION The restaurant is tucked away in a small strip mall in the Drum Hill section on the Chelmsford/Lowell line.

When we arrived, it was decorated with a banner-strewn apricot tree and fresh flowers for Tet, the Vietnamese New Year.

The décor has a modern Asian feel. Over the bar hang interesting scallop shell lamps and several large-screen TVs.

Some of the tables include built-in stations for shabu-shabu (Japanese hot pot), which patrons can order in a number of flavors, including Korean and Mongolian.

THE FOOD Vietnamese was a new cuisine to us, but Lucy, our waitress, on staff for seven years, was expert at explaining the menu.

The goi cuon ($4.50), chicken spring rolls with shredded lettuce, carrots, fresh mint, and rice vermicelli, sprang into our mouths. The vegetables were so fresh! They had a mild taste enhanced by peanut sauce garnished with peanuts and carrots.

The chao tom ($9.95) featured lightly seasoned ground shrimp molded around a piece of sugar cane and served with a heap of basil, romaine, bean sprouts, and watercress on a bed of shredded lettuce. The batter on the shrimp had an unusual texture created by tapioca flour. We chewed on the sugarcane for a little sweetness.

The tai gau ($8.95) is a signature pho dish of well-flavored beef stock with slices of rare steak and well-done brisket. It was accompanied by a heaping bowl of fresh vegetables.

The smallsize was anything but — a full meal, really — and I had to use a fork and a spoon to eat it. The beef was a little fatty but didn’t detract from my enjoyment, although not receiving a knife — only a fork and spoon — slowed me down.

The ga xao sa ot ($11.50) is a chicken breast sautéed with lemongrass and roasted peanuts. Served with stir-fried vegetables and a large mound of white rice, it was a little spicy and very flavorful.

The ample servings left us too full for dessert. We vowed to return again.

Pho 88, 1270 Westford St., Lowell, 978-452-7300, pho88online.net.

Khoa Le

Source: The Boston Globe